The first episode of "The New Look" on Apple TV Plus, titled "Just You Wait and See," is a masterful blend of historical drama and character study, set against the harrowing backdrop of World War II. It's a tale of survival, ambition, and the moral complexities faced by two of the most iconic figures in fashion history, Christian Dior and Coco Chanel.
The episode kicks off in 1955, post-war Paris, where the city is abuzz with anticipation for Coco Chanel's (Juliette Binoche) comeback collection. Meanwhile, Christian Dior (Ben Mendelsohn) is already a rising star, honored at a prestigious event in the city. The contrast between the two designers is immediately evident: Chanel, determined and fierce, while Dior is portrayed as more sensitive and introspective, hiding backstage and seeking solace in tarot cards.
As the crowd awaits Dior's appearance, the tension builds, and we're given a glimpse into the pressures of fame and the public's insatiable appetite for fashion. The staff's attempts to manage the situation highlight the challenges of maintaining an image in the spotlight, while Dior's reluctance to face the crowd adds a layer of vulnerability to his character.
The drama intensifies when a question about Chanel's wartime activities is posed, catapulting us back to 1943, deep into the Nazi occupation of Paris. Here, we see the stark realities of life under occupation, with Dior and Chanel navigating a moral minefield.
We meet Catherine Dior (Maisie Williams), Christian's sister, who is also a member of the French Resistance. A chilling encounter with Nazi soldiers underscores the dangers faced by those living in Paris, and the brutal reality of wartime violence. Catherine's near-rape and subsequent rescue by the Resistance is a stark reminder of the atrocities committed during this period.
In a parallel storyline, we see Chanel's complicity with the Nazis as she strikes a deal to secure the release of her nephew, Andre. Her interactions with the Nazis, particularly with the enigmatic Spatz (Claes Bang), reveal a darker side to her character, as she navigates the treacherous waters of collaboration.
The episode explores the moral ambiguity of survival, as both Dior and Chanel are forced to make difficult choices. Dior's justification for designing for Nazi women to fund the Resistance, and Chanel's willingness to use her connections to regain her fortune, blur the lines between right and wrong.
The sacrifices made by the Resistance are palpable, as we witness the execution of Jean and his friends. Their refusal to give up information under torture highlights the high stakes and the cost of resistance against the Nazi regime.
As the episode draws to a close, the tension mounts. Christian, alerted to Catherine's danger, races against time to save her, while Chanel is faced with a Faustian bargain that could change the course of the war. The episode ends on a cliffhanger, with Catherine's abduction and the implications of Chanel's potential deal with the Nazis.
"The New Look" - "Just You Wait and See" is a gripping start to the series, offering a nuanced portrayal of two fashion legends in a time of great turmoil. It's a story that delves into the human psyche, the cost of ambition, and the complex choices that must be made in the face of adversity. With its compelling characters, intricate plot, and stunning period detail, this episode sets a high bar for the rest of the season.