In "The New Look" Season 1, Episode 3: "Nothing But Blue Skies," the narrative of survival and betrayal deepens, with the characters' choices reflecting the harsh realities of war and the complexities of human nature. This episode is a testament to the series' ability to portray the intricate web of alliances and deceit that defined Paris during the Nazi occupation.
Coco Chanel (Juliette Binoche) returns to Paris from a failed mission to Madrid, only to face the harsh truth of her involvement with the Nazis. Her lover, Spatz (Claes Bang), must go into hiding as the Allies approach, leaving Chanel to confront her fate alone. The stakes are raised when Pierre Reverdy (Sagamore Stévenin) informs her that she is on a list of Nazi collaborators and must sell someone out to prove her loyalty to France. This predicament forces Chanel to make a decision that will alter the course of her life and legacy.
Meanwhile, Christian Dior (Ben Mendelsohn) is at his wit's end, searching for ways to help his sister, Catherine (Maisie Williams), who has been taken to a concentration camp. Desperation leads him to consider blackmailing a Nazi, and he turns to Beatrice Schmidt (Anna Redman), a kindhearted Nazi girlfriend who knows Catherine. The price for her help is exorbitant, pushing Dior to the brink of moral and financial ruin.
As the Allies close in on Paris, the city descends into chaos, and the Resistance prepares for retribution. Dior's quest to find Catherine becomes more urgent, leading him to steal fabric from Maison Lelong to use as a bribe. Lucien Lelong (John Malkovich), instead of punishing Dior, offers more fabric, showing the complex dynamics of survival and complicity during the occupation.
Chanel's decision to sell out Spatz to save herself is a turning point in the episode. Their final encounter, filled with deceit and broken trust, is a heart-wrenching display of how war corrupts even the strongest of relationships. Chanel's actions not only seal Spatz's fate but also solidify her own moral downfall.
Dior, on the other hand, is left with no hope after a Resistance friend kills Franz, the only person who could have provided information on Catherine. His visit to Chanel at the Ritz reveals her broken state and unwillingness to help, highlighting the despair and helplessness that permeates their lives.
The episode concludes with the liberation of Paris, symbolized by the blue skies and the ringing of bells. Chanel, in a desperate attempt to cleanse herself of her Nazi ties, distributes perfume to French soldiers, pretending to be the patriotic Frenchwoman she once was. In contrast, Dior, unable to celebrate the victory without his sister, mourns alone in his apartment, a poignant reminder of the personal costs of war.
"Nothing But Blue Skies" is a gripping installment of "The New Look" that delves into the darkest corners of the human soul, where survival often comes at the expense of morality and relationships. The episode leaves viewers with a profound sense of the tragic choices made by Dior and Chanel during the war and the lasting impact of their actions.