The fourth episode of "The New Look," titled "What a Difference," delves into the aftermath of Paris's liberation from Nazi occupation, showcasing the stark contrasts in the lives of Coco Chanel and Christian Dior. As the city rejoices, the personal battles of these iconic fashion figures take center stage, highlighting their resilience and the moral dilemmas that continue to haunt them.
Coco Chanel (Juliette Binoche) begins to face the consequences of her wartime actions. Celebrating the liberation with her nephew Andre, his friend Oscar Davies, and her actress friend Arletty, Chanel's relief is short-lived. The French Forces of the Interior (FFI) are on her trail, and she is confronted with the reality that her dealings with the Nazis could lead to her being labeled a collaborator. This tension is palpable as Chanel is arrested and questioned, using her connections to Churchill to secure her release, a testament to her resourcefulness and the precariousness of her situation.
Meanwhile, Christian Dior (Ben Mendelsohn) is still grappling with the uncertainty of his sister Catherine's fate. The episode opens with Dior at a clairvoyant evening, a nod to his belief in the supernatural. Madame Delahaye's premonition that someone he loves is trapped and his future involvement with a baby leaves him perplexed, adding a layer of mystique to his character.
Arletty's fear of being targeted by the FFI for her relationship with a German officer during the war adds a somber note to the celebrations. Despite her refusal to participate in Nazi propaganda films, her past threatens her present, mirroring the broader theme of how the war's legacy continues to impact individuals in different ways.
Chanel's decision to betray Spatz to save herself is a pivotal moment in the episode. Her actions not only seal Spatz's fate but also solidify her own moral downfall. In contrast, Dior's desperation to save Catherine leads him to consider desperate measures, including stealing fabric from Maison Lelong to raise funds. Lucien Lelong's unexpected support offers Dior a lifeline and a chance to contribute to the Théâtre de la Mode, a unique exhibition showcasing French fashion's resilience and creativity in the face of adversity.
The Théâtre de la Mode, a traveling exhibition of intricately designed miniature dresses for doll-sized mannequins, becomes a symbol of hope and revival. It's a testament to the resourcefulness and creativity of the French fashion industry in the face of scarcity. Dior's involvement in this exhibition marks a turning point in his career, as his designs receive widespread acclaim, setting the stage for his future success.
"Nothing But Blue Skies" is a gripping installment of "The New Look" that delves into the darkest corners of the human soul, where survival often comes at the expense of morality and relationships. The episode leaves viewers with a profound sense of the tragic choices made by Dior and Chanel during the war and the lasting impact of their actions. As the episode ends, with the bells of Paris ringing out in celebration, Chanel distributes perfume to French soldiers to prove her loyalty, while a heartbroken Dior sobs alone, reflecting on the personal costs of war and the uncertain future that lies ahead.