In the penultimate episode of "The New Look," titled "Will You Return," the lives of Christian Dior and Coco Chanel continue to unfold against the backdrop of post-war Paris, where both designers are striving to reestablish their dominance in the world of fashion. This episode is a poignant exploration of the characters' resilience, their creative visions, and the complexities of their relationships.
The episode opens with a flashback to 1905, where a young Coco Chanel (Juliette Binoche) and Elsa Lombardi meet and promise to stay together, whatever life throws at them. This moment sets the stage for the deep bond that has defined their friendship and the challenges they have faced together. In the present day, Chanel is seen collecting Elsa from jail, highlighting the depths of Elsa's addiction and Chanel's determination to help her friend clean up her act. Chanel's insistence that Elsa go to London to stay with her half-sister, Lottie, is a testament to her love for her friend, despite their recent disagreements.
Christian Dior (Ben Mendelsohn) is preparing for his father's funeral, a moment that underscores the personal toll his professional ambitions have taken on his family. Before leaving Paris, Dior offers Pierre Cardin the position of Head Tailor at his fashion house, a decision that reflects his commitment to assembling a team of talented individuals to help bring his vision to life. However, Dior faces pressure from Marcel Boussac and his team, who worry that he is behind schedule and understaffed, threatening to miss the deadline for his first collection.
At the funeral, Dior's brother Raymond criticizes his father's business acumen and questions Dior's ability to succeed, drawing a parallel between their father's failures and Dior's current endeavors. This tension is further exacerbated by Raymond's skepticism about Dior's relationship with Jacques and his belief in tarot cards, revealing the deep-seated doubts and rivalries within the Dior family.
In Switzerland, Chanel, Andre, and Elsa have a tense dinner with Spatz, who is still using the code name Peter Lang. Andre's suspicion of Spatz's true identity and his grilling of Chanel about their relationship adds to the mounting pressure on Chanel. The situation takes a tragic turn when Elsa, addicted to the sleeping aid drug, is found dead on the sofa after taking too much of the drug that Spatz gave her. Chanel is devastated by the loss of her best friend and the realization that they parted on bad terms.
Dior's creative process is interrupted by the news of his father's sudden death, a moment that shakes him to his core. Despite the turmoil, Dior finds inspiration in his brother Bernard's words about the light and dark that make up a human, leading him to sketch his new collection. However, the moment is bittersweet as Dior's name is hung above the door of his fashion house, symbolizing his professional success but also the personal loss he has suffered.
"Will You Return" is a powerful installment of "The New Look" that delves into the emotional depths of its characters. It showcases the resilience of the human spirit, the power of creativity, and the complexities of relationships in a world still reeling from the effects of war. As the episode concludes, viewers are left with a sense of the indomitable spirit of those who shape the course of history, even as they grapple with their own personal demons and the challenges of a world in transition.