In the finale of "The New Look," the fates of Christian Dior and Coco Chanel diverge, encapsulating the complexities of their lives and the post-war fashion world. Episode 10, "What a Day This Has Been," is a culmination of the series' exploration of ambition, creativity, and the personal costs of success.
The episode finds Coco Chanel (Juliette Binoche) reeling from the aftermath of Elsa's tragic death and grappling with the consequences of her actions during the war. Chanel's struggle intensifies as she confronts Spatz, her former lover, who attempts to blackmail her for her wartime activities. In a desperate bid to regain control of her brand, Chanel negotiates with the Wertheimers, ultimately securing a financial victory that makes her one of the richest women in the world. However, this triumph is short-lived, as she faces the potential execution of Barron, a man she denounced to the authorities, and the betrayal by her nephew André, who turns her in to the French police, leaving her future uncertain.
Christian Dior's (Ben Mendelsohn) journey reaches a climax as he prepares for his first collection for the House of Dior. Despite resorting to hiring seamstresses from rival designers, causing an uproar in the fashion community, Dior pushes forward. His former boss, Lucien Lelong, must decide whether to punish Dior for his actions, but ultimately allows him to continue, albeit with some restrictions. Dior's collection is a resounding success, with his iconic Bar Suit taking center stage. The episode ends with a montage of Dior's creations over the decades, showcasing the lasting impact of his work on the fashion industry.
Throughout the episode, the lingering effects of World War II are felt by both Dior and Chanel. Catherine, Dior's sister, is honored for her bravery during the war, but she struggles with the idea of celebrating when so many have suffered. Her decision to bury a photo of a friend in their father's garden symbolizes a final farewell to the horrors of war. Meanwhile, Chanel's past as a Nazi collaborator catches up with her, leading to her arrest and a potential trial.
"The New Look" concludes with a poignant reminder of the power of art and the resilience of the human spirit. Christian Dior's triumph in the world of fashion stands in stark contrast to Coco Chanel's downfall, a testament to the different paths they chose and the consequences that followed. As the House of Dior's legacy continues to thrive, Chanel's future hangs in the balance, leaving viewers with a sense of the enduring influence of their actions and the indelible mark they left on the world of fashion.